When someone offers you the chance to take on France's most famous massif, it's hard to say no! 3 days of intense mountain adventure to (re)discover the joys of climbing. Follow the guide!
Planes, trains, buses: on the road to Mont Blanc
All we know is that we're heading into the mountains for 3 days and that we need to make our way (we don't yet know how) to a village called Morgex, in the Aosta Valley in Italy, where we have a rendezvous with a mountain guide. Given the season and weather conditions, we'll most likely be tackling multi-pitch routes. But nothing is certain — we'd also love to explore glaciers and snow to improve our skills, learn more about techniques and equipment...
Not knowing much about our programme, we pack enough gear to cover a wide range of activities. Climbing shoes, harness, belay devices, trekking boots, crampons, ice axes, ropes, GPS… In short, 30 kg of kit — we're ready! And off we go, a mix of excitement, anticipation — and, for my part, a touch of apprehension.
The journey was no walk in the park: after 2 planes, 4 trains and a bus, we finally arrive at our destination. But the fatigue quickly fades when we set eyes on the impressive massifs surrounding us — the autumn colours illuminate the alpine forests and Mont Blanc watches over us serenely, already promising an action-packed stay.
Starting out in discovery mode
Day 1: After a pleasant acclimatisation hike, we meet our guide, Elis. First impressions are great — he seems motivated, friendly and approachable. It's decided: tomorrow we'll climb a long multi-pitch route, and the day after, he'll try to find us a glacier we can access.
Day 2: Perfect climbing weather! Not a cloud in the sky, the sun shining over a magnificent landscape — we answer the call of the mountain with broad smiles, harnesses, ropes and climbing shoes on our backs. We head out into the Mont Blanc massif. Along the way, Elis points out the countless routes possible on the ridges, arêtes, needles and glaciers that make up the Italian flank of the giant of the Alps — it's the stuff of dreams! We catch sight of the Grandes Jorasses, the Voie du Pape and the Innominata Ridge, among others.
After an hour's approach hike through a granite landscape, we find ourselves at the base of a 350-metre route: Genépi. We gear up and we're off! The first pitch is tough for me — it had been a long time since I'd been on a multi-pitch route. With the support of Colin and Elis, I eventually find my footing, my rhythm and the pleasure of climbing again. We work our way through 9 pitches, with grades ranging between 5 and 6a. Pure joy! Elis leads and we move steadily up the granite for a wonderfully enjoyable climb in a breathtaking setting. I reach the top feeling pretty pleased with myself.
For the descent, we complete 9 abseil pitches, during which we get the chance to test the various lanyards and belay devices we had borrowed from the shop. A wonderful moment of sharing, learning and skill-building. We end the day with a beer and spaghetti bolognese (followed by an entire pizza for Colin — impressive…) — Italy, after all!
Time to get serious
Day 3: Elis has found us a glacier we can reach on foot, so we kit ourselves out with ice axes, ice screws and crampons and set off under a much less encouraging sky than the day before. With the ski lifts closed for the season, we hike through a scree field from which we can spot, in the distance, our goal: the Pré de Bar glacier. The valley feels like it belongs to us — the silence broken only by the clatter of rocks underfoot as we make our way through what seems like an endless expanse of boulders. We finish the approach moving together on a tight rope, through terrain somewhere between hiking and scrambling.
After around 2h30 of walking, the impressive mass of ice finally rises before us. Crampons on, Elis takes the lead to set up an anchor in the ice. For me, this was a first time on ice. Not easy at first, but I manage to get the technique and reach the first anchor, then the next... It's amid beautiful snowfall that Elis also introduces us to ice climbing, various progression techniques, teaches us how to build an Abalakov anchor, set up a belay, and more… We compare ice screws, ice axes and crampons… The snow is starting to cause problems — it's time to head back down.
For me, the descent is tough: fatigue and slippery rocks push me to dig deep into my reserves. The snow is falling heavily, the landscape now entirely white. At least we're in the spirit of things! We eventually make it back to the car after 2 hours of walking. We round off the day over a beer. The debrief goes on and on — too enthusiastic about these past 3 days, we talk gear, summits, ice, projects and dreams! We head to bed early, heads (and legs!) full of wonderful experiences.
Time flies too fast
Day 4: Departure at 6am for a full day of trains, buses and planes. Just enough time to reflect on the trip. As far as the shop's initiative goes, it's a great success: we're heading home loaded with experience. What could be better for us than combining work and passion? The only small downside of this adventure: the journey, organised at the last minute, demanded too much time and energy for just 3 days on location.
But how can I wrap up this little account without mentioning Elis? Beyond being an excellent mountain guide, he's a wonderful person we were lucky to meet. Someone understanding who adapts to our respective levels, someone open, approachable and above all deeply passionate! One thing is certain — we want to come back! We knew little about this beautiful, resource-rich region. Between rock faces, ice falls and several summits exceeding 4,000 metres, there is no shortage of adventures. And all of this with warm and welcoming locals. In short, a very positive experience for us. We're heading home happy and motivated!
The Lecomte team ropes up on the Mont Blanc massif