In the hinterland of Albenga , not far from Finale Ligure , lies an unspoiled valley, covered with cherry trees, olive trees, mushrooms and truffles: a biological richness that exists thanks to the presence of the Pennavaire, a lively torrent that flows swiftly and wildly.
A dense network of trails connects the various hamlets surrounded by woodland, medieval historic centres and bridges from another era. If you've had enough of crowded crags and parking lots, fines and locals looking at you as if you were all vandals, this place is made for you!
Here the few inhabitants see climbing as an opportunity for development, and their welcome is magnificent. It is possible to get lost in the greenery without ever crossing paths with another human, and it is possible to jump naked into the torrent, only to discover a roe deer spying on you.
The crags are splendid. The climbing is modern, consisting of long, sustained pitches, well-equipped according to the modern concept of safety, owing to the recent discovery of this area for vertical climbing.
The crags range from the first ones in the neighbouring area of Castelbianco , among which Terminale and Erboristeria , to the new gems of the upper valley, based around the hamlet of Alto .
And to top it all off, this is where Liguria's hardest climbing is developing: this is the area where it is possible to find climbing champions ascending impossible grades.
Main features
- Matteo Gambaro was born in Cuneo on 10.11.1974, he studied at the Higher School of Sport in Turin, he took his first vertical steps in 1992 on the cliffs of the Cuneo and Finale region. After only 8 months, he was climbing at the 8th grade and began his long competition career which led him to win the Italian Cup in 2005 with numerous international experiences, alternating with many ascents among which stand out the famous Noia 8c+ (1999), Azione Diretta Fa 8c+/9a (2009 never repeated), Abisse 9a (2012), Perfect man 2.0 9a fa (2015), Esclatamaster 9a (2019), Narcissus 9a/+ in Albenga (2021) and Comité d'accueil 9a in Seranon (Fra) (2022). From 2009 to 2016, he founded and managed with Elene Chiappa the climbing village Posto di Blocco, with a climbing wall, bar and shop. National Fasi route setter, he has organised numerous competitions, including the Boulder Italia Cup in Cuneo in 2009, many regional competitions (Tcc) as well as important events such as Mdv, Bloc Pennavaire and Cervino Boulder Block. Since 2015, he has settled in Cisano sul Neva, initiating a true vertical revolution in the Val Pennavaire with more than 300 lines from 8a to 9a+, adding to this valley, already famous for its climbing, many high-level lines that were previously completely absent.