Although East Tyrol is only a district of Tyrol and not a federal state, the differences between this small region and its neighbors in North Tyrol and South Tyrol are quite significant.
The calcareous Carnic Alps, the Lienz Dolomites to the south, and the summits of over 3000 m in the Hohe Tauern, with their greenstone schist and gneiss walls, are noticeably less frequented by mountaineers and climbers.
Only the highest summits in these areas are heavily visited. The reasons may be poor accessibility or simply the absence of a prominent wall. What is certain is that many foreign climbers miss out on the climbing gems of East Tyrol.
The aim of this climbing guide is to provide an overview of all multi-pitch routes from the Laserzkessel above Lienz to the steep green schist walls of the Virgen Valley.
It also covers most of the crags in East Tyrol, from the Dolomiten-Hütte to the Falkenstein and the surrounding areas. Those who have already visited East Tyrol for climbing will certainly come back!
Main features
- Vittorio Messini was born in Florence and has lived in East Tyrol since the age of ten. His parents introduced him to hiking. Later, a friend introduced him to climbing and mountaineering. Shortly before beginning his training as a ski and mountain guide, he developed a passion for climbing, which he has been practicing for more than 15 years. During his geology studies, he was able to complete his guide training, which has been his main profession since 2011. Whether it's sport climbing, alpine climbing, first ascents, leading ski tours, ice or mixed climbing, or working as an instructor for the alpine rescue service in Tyrol, Vitto follows his passion. Since autumn 2017, he has also been part of the instructor team of the Austrian ski and mountain guide association.
- In collaboration with Matthias Wurzer, Silvester Wolsegger and the association Bergsport Osttirol, he was able to launch the Eispark Tirol project, the largest artificial ice climbing park in Austria. In January 2017, Vitto published with Martin Glantschnig and Stefan Lieb the first ice climbing guide for East Tyrol and Upper Carinthia (Eiskletterführer Osttirol und Oberkärnt-en).
- It contains more than 250 ice and mixed routes.