Sitting in the grass, I contemplate this rocky arch. The sun's rays create a postcard effect. You'd think you were in a mega production with Sharma and Ondra, minus the screaming. Up close, the scenery changes. The idyllic rock is nothing but sprayed concrete, the grass is nothing but dust and the sun is nothing but shadow. Fred brings me back to reality. "Flo, are you dreaming? This is the Devil's Bridge after all!"
If you only have an hour, or don't feel like pulling out your big rope and vintage quickdraws, bring a mat and your climbing shoes — this place is all about destroying your fingers! What a sweet sight it is to watch these ballerina climbers move just above the ground, in search of fresh air. "Tell me David, wouldn't we be better off at the climbing wall rather than torturing ourselves here?" "Flo, the bridge is the perfect preparation for Freyr. Trust me."…
Florian, David, Ben and Fred at the Pont du Diable
After the dreams... Action
A few months later, right in the middle of the Al Lègne sector at Freyr. Both hands locked in the underclings of Duel au Soleil, I try to rest before the section ahead called Big Bang. I commit... I'm already thirty-five metres off the ground with at least fifteen more to go. Félix is belaying me, he looks tiny from up here. I've already fallen once just past this point. Everything is perfect to maximise my chances: not too hot, quickdraws extended in places to reduce rope drag, a thin rope to be as light as possible, good physical condition. All that's left is to stay mentally strong, keep calm and focused.
Florian Castagne on Banegger 8a
Breathe, breathe
Freyr can demand a very technical, millimetre-precise style of climbing where you simply cannot afford to falter. I launch into the final bulge and everything goes smoothly, fighting against my pumping forearms. A few scary moments on the traverse over slopers just before the small rest. The wall steepens and I can no longer see what's happening below — I am alone. The rope is my only connection to my belayer, in whom I have complete trust.
Florian Castagne on Banegger 8a
Savouring the moment
The last quickdraw before the anchor is poorly placed. I prefer to skip it to ensure every move is solid. Stay calm. Finally the anchor, right at the top of the face. What a journey! Thank you Bibiche and Pico for establishing this line. What a joy — I can lower off in one go with a hundred metres of rope. Félix tells me he's never belayed with such a smooth rope: "It feeds itself right out of the grigri. It's incredibly pleasant!"
Stay vigilant
Pleasant, yes — provided it's in the hands of experienced and attentive climbers. Certain belay systems could prove less effective with such thin ropes. Even so-called auto-locking devices might fail to engage. Extra vigilance will be required with these movements. In any case, what a difference compared to a 9.8 millimetre rope.
The day ends well and we leave with light hearts. Freyr still has plenty of challenges in store for us — enough to fill a climber's lifetime. We're lucky to have such a characterful crag of this quality so close to home. What a school for sharpening your skills and getting ready to travel the world in your climbing shoes.
Florian and the pencil-alpinist. Béal Opéra rope, 8.5mm, 48g per metre, the first single rope this light! A patented rope for single, half or twin rope use, perfect for all-round use in the mountains…
A few tips for taking care of your rope
- After purchase, uncoil the rope into loops, twisting it on itself as you go.
- Use a rope bag to protect it from dust.
- Store it in a clean, dry place out of direct sunlight.
- Extend your quickdraws to avoid rope drag and friction against the rock. The elasticity will be better and the fall softer for both you and the rope.
- Clip into the last quickdraw after several consecutive falls to let the quickdraw cool down and the rope rest.
- Avoid using a thin-diameter rope for repeated top-rope sessions.
- Give it a cold bath without soap (to flush out the dust). There are also specialist products for washing your rope — ask in store.
- Check the full length of the rope periodically for any damage or other signs of wear.
- Cut the first few metres from one end if wear is more pronounced there. Having a long rope (e.g. 80m) is advantageous so you still have enough left to work with.
- Avoid dropping your shiny new rope into the Meuse after climbing Cocaïne Fingers on the Tête du Lion.
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My rope, that unique bond with my belay device